Montero Sport GLS V 2012: Essential Maintenance Tips and Common Issues to Avoid

I remember the first time I drove my 2012 Montero Sport GLS V home from the dealership—that commanding driving position and robust engine promised years of reliable adventures. Over the past decade, I've learned that while this SUV is built like a tank, it demands consistent, knowledgeable care to avoid some pretty expensive pitfalls. Just like that unfortunate incident my friend Nieto shared about his finger injury—"Na-fracture yung finger ko (left), na-dislocate and nadurog yung buto," he recalled, describing how the damage required a cast that kept him sidelined for over a month. That's exactly what happens when we ignore small issues in our vehicles—they escalate into major, costly repairs that leave our cars "out of action" for weeks.

One area I'm particularly passionate about is transmission maintenance. The 2012 GLS V's automatic transmission can develop rough shifting around the 80,000-mile mark if you neglect fluid changes. I learned this the hard way when mine started jerking between gears during highway acceleration. The repair bill? A whopping $2,200 for a transmission overhaul. Now I religiously change the transmission fluid every 45,000 miles using only Mitsubishi-specific ATF. While some mechanics might tell you that 60,000 miles is fine, I've found that earlier changes prevent the solenoid issues that plague these transmissions. There's a distinct whining sound that develops when the fluid breaks down—if you hear it, don't wait like I did.

The turbocharger system represents another critical maintenance point that many owners overlook until it's too late. Around the 75,000-mile mark, the turbo vanes tend to accumulate carbon deposits that can lead to reduced boost pressure. I make it a habit to let the engine idle for 60-90 seconds after highway driving before shutting it off—this simple practice has probably added years to my turbo's lifespan. The intercooler pipes on these models tend to develop small cracks around 90,000 miles, causing pressure leaks that reduce fuel efficiency by about 15-20%. I replace mine with upgraded silicone hoses, which cost about $180 but last significantly longer than the OEM rubber ones.

Electrical gremlins can be particularly frustrating with this model year. The alternator typically needs replacement around 100,000 miles—mine gave out at 98,500 miles during a road trip, leaving me stranded. The battery drain issues some owners report often trace back to the audio system's amplifier drawing power when the vehicle is off. I installed a battery disconnect switch after dealing with two dead batteries in one month. The power window regulators are another weak point—I've replaced three of mine over the years, with each costing about $150 in parts. What surprises me is how many owners ignore the early warning signs like slow operation or unusual noises until the mechanism fails completely.

Suspension components wear out predictably if you pay attention. The front lower ball joints typically need replacement between 60,000-70,000 miles. When mine started making clicking noises during low-speed turns, I knew exactly what it was. The repair cost me $380 including alignment, but waiting could have damaged the CV joints, increasing the repair to over $800. The shock absorbers tend to lose their effectiveness around 80,000 miles—I upgraded to aftermarket units that provided better ride quality for about $600 installed. The rear leaf springs on these trucks often develop sagging issues after 100,000 miles, especially if you frequently carry heavy loads. Mine dropped nearly two inches before I noticed the uneven tire wear pattern.

Engine maintenance requires more than just oil changes. The timing belt service at 60,000 miles is non-negotiable—a broken belt would destroy the interference engine, costing upwards of $4,000 to repair. I replace the water pump simultaneously since it's already accessible. The fuel injectors on the 2012 model tend to clog if you use lower-tier gasoline—I stick to top-tier fuels and add a quality injector cleaner every 10,000 miles. What many mechanics miss is the EGR valve clogging issue that develops around 90,000 miles, causing rough idling and reduced power. Cleaning it costs about $120, while replacement runs $400—I choose cleaning every time.

Looking back over my eight years with this vehicle, I've developed a real appreciation for its engineering while recognizing its specific maintenance needs. Just like my friend's finger injury that required proper immobilization to heal correctly, our vehicles need proactive care rather than reactive repairs. The 2012 Montero Sport GLS V remains a fantastic vehicle when properly maintained, but it definitely punishes neglect. My advice? Create a maintenance schedule slightly more aggressive than the manufacturer recommends, use quality parts, and never ignore those small warning signs. That clicking noise or slight vibration today could save you thousands tomorrow—trust me, I've learned both the easy and hard ways.

By Heather Schnese S’12, content specialist

2025-11-11 17:12